Lafayette In Middletown 

(and Upper Houses, part of Middletown until 1851 when renamed Cromwell) 

Friday, September 4^th, 1824, about 6:00 until after dark

Friday, September 4^th started off as a rainy and unpleasant day in Middletown but at around 3:00 in the afternoon, the skies began to clear.  About this time, Middletown city officials received word that Lafayette would be traveling to Middletown on the steamboat, Oliver Ellsworth, by way of the Connecticut River rather than the previously planned over-land route through Wethersfield and Rocky Hill. The explanation was given that the General was too fatigued to travel by road. This could easily be understood as Lafayette had been on a whirlwind tour through New England for the last three weeks with little rest since he arrived in the United States on August 15th. The poor man must have been exhausted by the time he reached Middletown, his last stop on this tour through New England. But, though weary, the great man did not disappoint the citizens of the city and made a point of making himself available to greet the public crowds as well as the city officials. 

At about 6:00, the steamboat, decorated with flags and streamers, rounded a point about three miles above the landing at the Upper-Houses. When spotted, a thirteen-gun salute was fired from a high point near the river. The Oliver Ellsworth docked at the Upper Houses where the boat was greeted by crowds along the riverbank, anxiously awaiting a glimpse of the General. Along with a squadron of cavalry to serve as an escort, the newspaper reported that Lafayette was welcomed by a deputation of “distinguished” citizens from Middleton led by the “first Marshall”. Two elegant barouches stood waiting to carry Lafayette and his son, George Washington Lafayette, into the city of Middletown.

At the time of Lafayette’s visit to Middletown, it was the third largest city in Connecticut with a population of about 6,500 including the residents of the Upper Houses. Throngs of this population crowded the streets of the city, gathering as far as the eye could see. The elegant buildings nestled along the main avenue flew banners and the ships in the port were decorated with colorful flags in his honor.

Crossing the bridge at the north part of Middletown, the cavalcade was met by the Corps of Artillery, the Riflemen, and the Light Infantry who prepared to escort the guests to the Mansion House Hotel where a reception was waiting. The hotel, a large, elegant building, situated on the SW corner of Washington and Main Street was a popular venue for sizable parties and celebrations. Along the front of the building ran a colonnade supporting a balcony which had been decorated with entwined evergreens and flowers.  At the entrance of the building was an arch inscribed with the words, “WELCOME LAFAYETTE”.  Approaching the hotel, Lafayette and his traveling companions could see that the gallery under the balcony and every window above was crowded with the ladies of the town who had probably been responsible for decorating the building.       

Assembled at the hotel were the Common Council seated in the middle of the large room with members of the clergy seated on one side and Revolutionary War veterans seated on the other. The mayor gave a speech of welcome to Lafayette after which the General courteously replied with a short but appropriate reply. After about three-quarters of an hour with introductions to the Common Council, the clergy, and the veterans, Lafayette was led outside to where he could be seen by those gathered around the hotel. The people cheered and clapped their hands at the sight of the great man. Because of the public’s desire to see Lafayette, a parade through the town was organized with Lafayette, accompanied by the mayor, in the barouche pulled by four white horses and escorted by military groups. Newspapers described the route of the procession as up Washington Street, southward along High Street, and down Church Street to Main Street. It was growing dark by this time and as the parade rounded the corner on Main Street, they could see that both sides of the street had been illuminated presenting a magical sight as the carriages rolled up the street.

Before reaching the hotel, the carriage came to a halt in front of a mansion which was the home of Commodore Thomas Macdonough, the famous naval hero of the War of 1812. Although only forty-one years of age at the time of Lafayette’s visit, Macdonough suffered from late stages of tuberculosis and two gentlemen were required to support his frail body as he was introduced to Lafayette. After a short conversation, Lafayette expressed his hope of seeing the commodore in better health later in New York. 

It had been planned for Lafayette and his entourage to dine with the officials at the hotel where an elaborate meal had been prepared for them by the staff of Mr. Charles Francis, but Lafayette declined the invitation. By this time, he must have been quite tired and looking forward to his berth on the Oliver Ellsworth for his overnight crossing to New York City. So, the procession moved past the hotel and towards the river where the steamship was docked. The General boarded to cheers and huzzas from the adoring crowd and they waved to their hero as the steamboat pulled into the river and headed southward into the night. 

The American Sentinel, a Middletown newspaper, reported that George Washington Lafayette, apologizing for their speedy departure from the city, explained to a member of the Common Council that the short visit was due to engagements to be at so many places within a limited time. The gentleman nodded, replying, “The General is now the slave of a grateful people.” Lafayette’s son responded, “Ah, my father is happy in such slavery.”

Thank you to the Middlesex County Historical Society for your valuable assistance.